We wake to a dense fog over the sea and up to condo. Nothing much can be seen in the gray light. We have breakfast and I write this blog. Ana reads from a guide book about Santiago de Compostella. It is one o’clock before the sun breaks through.

Untill now, there has been no point in leaving the condo. Visibility has been less than 50 feet all morning. Now with the fog lifting, we decide to travel south along the coast leaving the Fisterra peninsula and working our way through nearby villages. We can see a bit of the bay from our condo. As we drive along the coast, the road is clear of fog, but the ocean is not. A cloud drapes the edge of the sea. We stop and shoot photos of cloudy seascapes from lofty perches high on hillsides. But there is little water that can be seen for the fog. We pass Corcubion, and Cee going south, and eventually we get to Carnota. We are looking for a restaurant to have lunch, knowing that between 3 and 4 p.m. they all close until 8 or 9 at night. We have had difficulty feeling hungry after breakfast. Probably still the affect of jet lag. But we know if we don’t find a lunch spot soon, we’ll be eating cheese and bread to hold us over till dinner.

Hikers on the Compostela de Santiago enter Fisterra on a foggy morning. They still have more than 2 miles to go until they reach the lighthouse…the end.



Outside Cartona, we see a modern looking place. It is along the main drag and in a field and not over looking a bay. This is not what we want, but it is open and has a car or two in front. We enter as the waitress has just rushed back in after picking up her daughters at school. We ask if they are serving—as there is only one other couple in the place—and she says they are but a limited menu as they will close soon. The limited menu costs 10 euros and includes a soup or pasta salad first; followed by a beef stew, rather like a Hungarian goulash. There is a dessert and free non-alcoholic beverage. It is quite a wonderful meal and far to much food. We leave stuffed.



Not far away, we find a pull-off for a park that runs along the sea. We take a walk, but it is still foggy here and getting denser. The walk along the sea shore is welcome after our big lunch.
We turn back to Fisterra about 5 p.m. There we scout near the beach for the fish restaurant recommended by the man picking chestnuts in the forest yesterday. It will open about 9 p.m. We go back to the condo and take a break.

We arrive at the restaurant a bit early and walk into the kitchen by mistake where the staff is resting before dinner. They will open in a few minutes and we can wait in the bar. But we go outside and find a bench facing the town beach. We watch a flock of seagulls following a fishing boat a few hundred yards off the sand. Ana thinks the fishermen must hate the birds swarming about their boat.
We go into the restaurant, when others start arriving. It is a nice place, fancier than I thought it might be. The prices are a little higher too. The words describing the fish and seafood are not the Spanish Ana knows. When we start to struggle with the main fish courses, the waiter asks us to follow him into the kitchen where a freezer is opened and we can choose our dinner from four species of iced fresh whole fish. We choose Sea Bass after enjoying this brief tour. Later, we struggle with the names of appetizers and the waiter brings four types of clams to the table to show us what we can order. We choose razor clams, which are caught in the local bay. They are in four inch tubes; different from anything I have eaten before. They offer much more meat than common clams and are a bit tastier, too. They prove a hearty appetizer. The Sea Bass is delicious and reminds me of the fish we had in Nerja last fall on our other trip to Spain. They are cooked on an open flame, which we saw burning on our first foray into the kitchen. Simply the best fish I have ever had, anywhere.
It has been a pleasant day, even though without much sun. We will head for Santiago de Compostella tomorrow and see the pilgrims arrive at the cathedral.


